The Ultimate Guide to Glycolic Acid: Unlock Radiant Skin with This Skincare Superstar

Your Guide to Understanding Glycolic Acid, Your Skincare Superstar.

A quick look at the history of Glycolic acid in skincare 

Glycolic acid, a member of the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family, can be derived from many sources including sugar cane. It is one of the smallest AHAs, which allows it to penetrate the skin more effectively. 

The use of AHAs, including lactic acid, dates as far back as ancient Egypt, where Cleopatra, famous for her soft smooth skin, is said to have bathed in sour milk presumably to exfoliate and rejuvenate her skin. In her case the effective acid would have been lactic acid. Glycolic acid's formal introduction to modern skincare began in the late 20th century when dermatologists recognized its potent exfoliating properties. While most often associated with sugar cane, glycolic acid can be derived from multiple sources that include: 

• Sugar Beets This alternative source provides the same benefits as glycolic acid derived from sugar cane.

• Unripe Grapesare yet another source of glycolic acid. It is often included in fruit acid complexes. 

• Glycolic acid can also be synthetically produced. This method allows for consistent purity and concentration, making it ideal for precise formulations in skincare products.

What is Glycolic Acid’s mechanism of action? How does Glycolic Acid work?

Glycolic acid works by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells, facilitating their removal and revealing fresher, brighter skin underneath. This exfoliating action helps to improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, even out skin tone, plus unclog pores. Additionally, glycolic acid stimulates collagen production. Collagen is fundamental to maintaining healthy, youthful, and resilient skin. It supports the skin's structure, improves elasticity and hydration, aids in healing, reduces wrinkles, and protects against environmental damage. Boosting collagen production through skincare products, a balanced diet, and supplements can significantly enhance overall skin health. 

What is the optimal concentration of Glycolic Acid for skin?

Concentrations of glycolic acid in skincare products can vary widely, depending on the intended use and the formulation's specific goals. The percentage of glycolic acid in a product is determined by the desired depth of exfoliation and the skin's tolerance to the acid. Formulations with higher concentrations of glycolic acid are more potent and deliver faster results, but they also have a higher potential for irritation, especially for sensitive skin types. Conversely, lower concentrations are designed for regular use and provide cumulative benefits over time with minimal risk of irritation. 

Glycolic acid use in skincare products ranges from gentle daily exfoliants to intensive professional treatments, making it a versatile option for achieving healthy, rejuvenated skin. 

So how does Glycolic Acid fit in my skin care routine? 

Cleansers and toners containing glycolic acid in 3 or 5% concentrations are great choices for step one and two in any routine depending on your skin’s sensitivity. 

Another toner choice might include a dual action toner containing 3% glycolic acid plus salicylic (beta hydroxy) acid. Combining these acids in a formulation can provide comprehensive skincare benefits, targeting both surface-level and deeper skin concerns.  

• Glycolic Acid: Reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation and helps to fade post-acne marks and improve overall skin texture by promoting improved skin cell turnover and collagen production
• Salicylic Acid: Known for its ability to treat and prevent acne by unclogging pores and reducing inflammation and oil production. It addresses issues like blackheads and whiteheads, leading to clearer skin. The combination of glycolic acid’s surface exfoliation with salicylic acid’s deep pore cleansing offers a balanced approach, making it suitable for various skin types, particularly those with combination skin. 

Remember to Cleanse, Tone and Treat your skin

You may choose to go directly to a treatment after cleansing to address specific concerns you may have, or you may follow cleansing with toning prior to your next step. Toners improve the absorption of products that you use after cleansing. Following up with a serum containing Vitamin C can be a good choice, as it is a strong antioxidant and will help prevent photo aging or correct existing free radical damage. Adding an eye serum is also an important step. Choose a treatment based on your needs, whether that’s to address under eye bags, neck serums or even face lifting serums. Always wrap it all up with a moisturizer – preferably a “multitasker” containing peptides and vitamins, followed by your favorite sunscreen so that you can attain that natural beauty and health you are seeking. It is all about self-care and you!

What about all those other ingredients I see added to Glycolic Acid in products? 

Your outcome is not dependent on just a single ingredient in any formulation. There are several ingredients that, when thoughtfully included, can improve results. Here are some of our favorites.

• Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder.More commonly recognized asAloe Vera, it’s renowned for its soothing, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory properties. When combined with glycolic acid, aloe vera helps mitigate the potential irritation and dryness that can result from glycolic acid's exfoliating action. Aloe vera contains vitamins, enzymes, and polysaccharides that enhance skin hydration and promote skin healing, making it an excellent complement to glycolic acid in skincare formulations. This combination ensures that the exfoliating benefits of glycolic acid are delivered without compromising the skin's moisture barrier, keeping your skin hydrated.
• Lavandula Angustifolia Extract.Commonly known simply as Lavender, it offers several benefits. Its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties help soothe and calm irritated skin, which is particularly beneficial after the exfoliating action of glycolic acid. Lavender also has antioxidant properties that protect the skin from environmental stressors and free radicals, enhancing the overall effectiveness of your skincare routine. Studies have shown that lavender can promote skin healing and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making it a valuable addition to anti-aging products 

• Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract.Saponaria officinalis, also known asSoapwort, contains natural saponins that provide gentle cleansing and anti-inflammatory benefits. When used alongside glycolic acid, soapwort extract helps cleanse the skin without stripping it of its natural oils, thereby reducing the risk of irritation and dryness. This makes it an excellent ingredient for maintaining skin balance and supporting the exfoliating process initiated by glycolic acid.
• Algae Extract is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. When used with glycolic acid, it helps to hydrate and nourish the skin while providing a protective barrier. This combination can mitigate the potential drying effect of glycolic acid and enhance skin rejuvenation by providing essential nutrients and promoting collagen production.
• Allantoin promotes cell regeneration and healing, making it an excellent companion to glycolic acid. As glycolic acid exfoliates the skin and removes dead skin cells, allantoin aids in repairing and soothing the newly revealed skin. This combination helps to reduce irritation and enhance the skin's smoothness and softness.
• Camellia Sinensis,commonly known asGreen Tea Extract, is a powerful antioxidant with anti-inflammatory properties. When used with glycolic acid, it helps to neutralize free radicals and reduce inflammation, which can enhance the skin's resilience to the exfoliating effects of glycolic acid. Green tea extract also aids in calming and soothing the skin, making the exfoliation process gentler.

• Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Oil, known asChamomile Oil, has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. When combined with glycolic acid, chamomile oil helps calm the skin and reduce any redness or irritation that may occur from exfoliation. It also provides hydration and can help in restoring the skin's natural barrier, enhancing the overall efficacy of glycolic acid.

• Panax Ginseng Extract, recognized more commonly as simply Ginseng Extract, is known for its anti-aging and revitalizing properties. It helps to boost collagen production and improve skin elasticity. When used with glycolic acid, ginseng extract enhances the skin's renewal process, aiding in the reduction of fine lines and improving skin texture. Its antioxidant properties also help protect the skin from environmental damage.

• Triethanolamine is used primarily to adjust the pH of formulations, ensuring that both glycolic acid and salicylic acid function optimally. Proper pH balance enhances the effectiveness of these acids while minimizing potential irritation. Triethanolamine helps stabilize the formula, allowing the acids to exfoliate effectively while maintaining skin barrier integrity.
• Glycerin is a potent humectant that attracts moisture to the skin. When used with glycolic acid and salicylic acid, glycerin helps to counteract the potential drying effects of these exfoliating acids. It ensures the skin remains hydrated, promoting a smoother and more supple complexion.

• Hamamelis Virginiana Water, better known asWitch Hazel, acts as an astringent, helping to tighten pores and reduce inflammation. When combined with glycolic acid and salicylic acid, witch hazel enhances the overall exfoliating process by soothing the skin and minimizing redness and irritation. Its anti-inflammatory properties complement the acids' action, making it suitable for acne-prone skin.

• Wild Chamomile Oil. Ormenis Multicaulis Oil has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. When used with glycolic acid and salicylic acid, it helps to calm the skin and reduce any redness or irritation caused by these exfoliating agents. Its soothing nature complements the acids, making the exfoliation process gentler on the skin.

• Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, recognized asHorse Chestnut, has anti-inflammatory and vasoprotective properties. It can help to improve blood circulation and reduce redness and swelling. In a glycolic acid formulation, horse chestnut extract supports the skin's healing process and reduces the appearance of broken capillaries, enhancing the overall effectiveness of the product.

• Urea is a powerful humectant and keratolytic agent. It helps to soften and hydrate the skin while promoting exfoliation. When combined with glycolic acid, urea enhances the acid's exfoliating effects by loosening dead skin cells, leading to improved skin texture and hydration.
• Dextrin is a polysaccharide that acts as a binding agent and moisture absorber. It supports the moisturizing properties of glycolic acid formulations by helping to retain water in the skin. This enhances the overall hydration and texture of the skin.

• Alanine, Glutamic Acid. These amino acids are essential for maintaining skin hydration and health. They help to reinforce the skin's natural moisturizing factors, improving its ability to retain moisture. When used with glycolic acid, they enhance the skin's barrier function and reduce potential irritation from exfoliation.

• Hexyl Nicotinate is a vasodilator that improves blood flow and skin oxygenation. It enhances the delivery of glycolic acid into the skin, increasing its effectiveness. By promoting better circulation, it also supports the skin's natural healing processes.
• Biotin (Vitamin B7) supports skin health by improving the structure and function of the skin barrier. When used with glycolic acid, biotin helps to enhance the skin's resilience and repair, promoting a healthier, more radiant complexion.
• Alpha Arbutin is known for its skin-brightening and hyperpigmentation-reducing properties. 
• Ethylhexylglycerin provides a smooth feel and improves the skin's moisture retention.

Summary

Combining these ingredients with glycolic acid and salicylic acid creates a balanced and effective skincare formula. Each ingredient brings unique benefits that complement the exfoliating actions of the two acids, ensuring the skin remains hydrated, soothed, and protected while benefiting from improved cell turnover and rejuvenation. This synergistic approach helps to minimize potential side effects and maximizes the overall effectiveness of the product.